Cassia vs. Cinnamon and Donn the Beachcomber

November 6th, 2007 by Colonel Tiki

At some point, in North America (at least the U.S.A. and Canada), Cinnamon was replaced by its much less expensive cousin, Cassia. The taste, while similar enough for many uses, is definitely noninterchangeable for most cocktail recipes. The trick is to know which to use and when to use it.

Cassia
Cassia (Cinnamomum Cassia) is thick and red-brown in color and is what you’ll most likely get when you purchase cinnamon in a regular grocery store. The flavor is strong, sharp and hot. It is a perfect choice for baking or where you only want to taste only Cinnamon. However, it will quickly overpower any balanced drink when you use it in syrup (or purchase Cinnamon syrup made with Cassia).

Ceylon

Ceylon or ‘true’ Cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) is light brown and has the consistency of paper. It will easily give and break apart in your hand. The flavor has essences of citrus and is mellow, warm. It shines in chocolate, mulling, and especially in your mixed drinks. This is the Cinnamon you’ll want for making or purchasing syrup. You can find it cheaper in the Mexican food section of your market labeled as “Canela.” I get mine from Penzey’s.

When making the Donga Punch from Sippin’ Safari, I decided to perform an experiment. I mixed one drink using the Cassia syrup, and the other with Ceylon Cinnamon. The Cassia version tasted exceedingly of the sharp, spicy notes I love in a Cinnamon roll. The drink, however, was unbalanced. I did manage to finish it. The Donga containing Ceylon Cinnamon was properly balanced and delicious. The Ceylon supported the flavor profile, enhanced the rum, and contrasted nicely with the Grapefruit. In the other version, the grapefruit flavor was lost to the overbearing zing of Cassia.

Further experiments at Blair’s Galley with the Nui Nui bore the same results. Donn drinks seem to call for Ceylon Cinnamon, not Cassia. It makes me wonder: Did Cassia replace Cinnamon in common domestic use after the creation of these classic Tiki drinks? Did Ray Buhen and Donn’s other boys use only true Cinnamon, coming from a cuisine and culture that did not conflate the two? Bears research I say.

Not to say that Cassia has no role in drink making. I still add it (very carefully) to hot rum batter (with as much care as I would cloves, the other flavor killer in high doses), Coffee Grog (not the batter, pinch-wise while making the drink), and for light toppings of other hot drinks when I think the recipe calls for a light smack of the ‘heavy stuff.’

I’m just happy I’ve made a discovery that has improved my mixology, and I hope I pass it on to you and yours.

Cheers!

-=C

Xmas Drink #1: The Snowball

October 2nd, 2007 by Colonel Tiki

The Snowball is a highball of Advocaat and lemon-lime soda, sometimes with a splash of lemon and/or lime juice.

Snowball

1½ oz. Advocaat
3 oz. Lemon-Lime soda
Splash Lemon and/or Lime juice

Add cubed ice to a highball or double rocks glass. Add Advocaat, citrus, and top with lemon-lime soda. Stir carefully to mix. Garnish with lemon wheel.

——

I need to get some Advocaat, which is made from egg yolks, brandy, and vanilla. Heather used to call it “egg nog liqueur,” which isn’t that far from the truth. I’m guessing it will be a dandy base for any number of creamy Christmas bevvies. I’m guessing Ginger snaps, Egg Nog variations, nutty drinks, &c. There is a Mexican cousin of Advocaat that goes by the name of Rompope.

Drinkie Navy Groggie

September 17th, 2007 by Colonel Tiki

Lately, I’ve been fixated on the Navy Grog. Namely, Jeff ‘beachbum‘ Berry’s version of Donn’s Navy Grog.

I use the version in the Grog Log and add ½ oz of my ‘lazy’ pimento dram.

Craig’s lazy Pimento dram:

  • ¼ cup good quality allspice berries
  • ¼ cup Lemon Hart 151
  • 2 cups Sugar
  • 1 cup Water
  • Metal Strainer and Cheesecloth

Grind allspice berries with either mortar & pestle or as I do with a coffee grinder until you achieve a small crushed size. Steep ground allspice in 151 for at least 1 day. Dissolve sugar in water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add aged allspice/151 mixture. Let this mixture sit for at least 1 day. Strain first through metal sevie strainer to remove large particulate, then through a single layer of cheesecloth to remove the finer particulate.

My version of Bum’s version of the Navy Grog is as follows:

  • ¾ oz Grapefruit Juice
  • ¾ oz Lime Juice
  • ¾ oz Honey Syrup
  • ½ oz ‘lazy’ Pimento Dram
  • 1 oz Coruba Dark
  • 1 oz Lemon Hart (not 151) demerara
  • 1 oz Appleton White
  • 1 oz White soda (7-up, sprite, club if you must)

Fill one double rocks glass with small crushed ice. Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass. Start with the honey, then add the citrus to dissolve the honey syrup nicely. Finish with the soda and be gentle to save the carbonation. Pour into double rocks glass and stir to frost the exterior: Ideally you would use a rock-candy swizzle to stir.

Delicious, I assure you.